DachauDachau is not the place to go for good times. It is a place to go
to be reminded of the depths to which we can sink. Most of the camp has been preserved or restored, however there are parts which no longer exist, or for which only the foundations are visible.
Dachau itself
was a concentration camp, not an extermination camp. What this means is that it was a 'holding camp', however that by no means suggests any of the atrocities committed there were any lesser than elsewhere. It was originally setup as the 'model concentration camp' for holding political enemies of the Nazi regime, on the grounds of an old munitions factory. While death was not imminent as it was in an extermination camp, death was brought about by work. 'Arbeit macht frei', one of the most photographed slogans on the camp gate is one of many peverse ironies of Dachau. It translates to mean 'Work Produces Freedom' but work is mainly what killed prisoners at Dachau.
The tour guide gave us an insight into the mindset of the prisoners, and of the SS tactics to control thought and action, through propaganda, torture and the stripping of prisoner's individuality and personality. Giving up one's possessions and clothes. Being prohibited from having your hands in your pockets (so as to treasure a secret hoard perhaps), shaved heads, and regimented roll call were all part of the SS machine. I won't say much more, except to urge you to visit Dachau (handheld digital audio guides are also available)
Ironies- Escape-risk prisoners were often made to wear a special badge on their backs. We see them these days on archery fields.
- The gate that says 'Arbeit Macht Frei' is in fact a copy - the original was 'liberated' and is perhaps somewhere in an American GI's basement.
- Each barracks had a communal room in which the prisoners could mingle with each other, but they weren't allowed in.
- The German riot police now reside and train in the area that SS guards were housed and trained in.
- The memorial monument to prisoner solidarity (next to the wire one - not photographed), a colour reproduction of the assorted badges etc that prisoners had to wear, linked by dark chain links. However, it does not include the badges that homosexuals were forced to wear (colour coded pink). This is a sore point among ex-prisoners today and mocks the memorial to solidarity.
There is plenty of horrific irony to be found at Dachau. What was odd is the presence of trees and flowers and grass, and birds singing. It all doesn't fit and isn't easily categorised to a metaphor about time standing still or time moving on. There is lingering death there.
The Unknown PrisonerThis memorial was the tour guide's favourites and I was easily able to see why. In the photo you will notice several indicators of rebellion: hands in pockets, feet not side by side and head upright. the text underneath translates roughly thus: 'To the dead, honour, to the living, caution/warning'.
A sombre afternoon was had there.
The eveningAnxiously waiting for the SMS to deliver the address of the birthday party of one of
Der Germans to which I had been invited last night, I headed off to the beer hall where we had met and sat down to enjoy a
Currywurst which comes with chips, as well as a pretzel and a beer. I resolved to wait until I had finished the beer and then head back for an early night if no answer.
The first thing I noticed upon re-entering the beer hall was the presence of two more trans-Tasman cousins, so of course in the spirit of things I naturally sat down at their table (away from them) and the night began.
I was devoid of any overt Kiwiana except for my greenstone, but it didn't show up very well against the dark shirt I was wearing. What I did have though, was a big black All Blacks scarf which was the present for the girl whose birthday it was and also to thank them for the hospitality they showed me the previous night.
The openingWhat made things interesting is that two American girls (one known to the Aussies) came in and sat down across the table from me (next to their corner). As close as I was, I occasionally got some glances when a particular funny joke was made, you know, the kind to check and see if you thought it was funny as well. So at thos moments I grinned in appreciation and turned back to my dinner. Then one of the Aussies excused himself to go too the bathroom. As the conversation had been one to one (Oz-Am, Oz-Am), the new American girl turned to me and asked me which country I was from.
Cut and thrustNot being one to step away from a wrestle with Australians, I started up a conversation with her and once the other guy returned from the loo, I declared myself to be a Kiwi and met all four of them. Out came the sheep jokes.
I was nigh on finishing my beer, but it was still early days and when an Australian orders another beer and suggests you do too, it is unsporting to do otherwise. Out come the litre steins.
I check my phone and find a text with the meeting point and time and it is still a few hours off. The atmosphere is getting a bit more lucid and the three boys become a little silly as you do when drinking beer. Out come the cameras.
Aussie #2 makes an ill-timed and room-clearing comment about American #2's wardrobe needs. The table is shocked into silence, and American #2 confiscates his beer, places it to the other end of the table, takes his sunnies, dunks them in the beer, takes his hat and places it over the top of the stein in a grand finale accompanied by cheering from Aussie #1 and The Kiwi. Aussie #2 has already had his beer confiscated once tonight by American #2 and he ably returned into favour with a redeeming and charming comment (To Aussie #1: 'What do you mean? She's on her A-Game!" - Referring to further banter on American #2's wardrobe needs and reflecting earlier conversation on the state of American baseball) but there is no escaping this one. He correctly states that he will not simply 'say something', but that it has to be 'from the heart'. This carry-on goes for a while, and Aussie #2 seems supsiciously unpertubed at losing his beer.
The Kiwi reminds Aussie #2 that he is falling behind in his beer. Aussie #2 ignores this and turns to American #1.
American #2 starts taking pictures of Aussie #1 and The Kiwi, who are more than happy to play up for a camera. In a surprise move, The Kiwi gives Aussie #1 a quick kiss as the camera flashes and the Aussie is understandably shaken but unhurt. American #2 shows the trans-Tasman cousins in a surprisingly comical picture - Aussie #1 has a nonchalant look as he gets a kiss on the cheek. NZ - Australia: 1-0.
Later...At the German discotheke, the Kiwi notices two raggedy looking chaps in yellow on the dance floor. It is 3am and The Kiwi strolls over to Aussies #1 and #2. Aussie #2 recognises The Kiwi and immediately grabs him, depositing a dirty great, unsubtle, stubbly MAN KISS on his cheek, no doubt attracting the attention of security staff up on the stage. NZ - Australia: 1-1.
The Kiwi notices that security have just spoken to Aussie #1. The Kiwi makes mental note not to get chucked out with them.
How to dominate a German discothekeSome lessons from a converted warehouse out the back of the Hauptbahnhof:
a) Recall all those moves you picked up at the Waterfront Bar, Coast and Leftfield/Float on Auckland's Viaduct Harbour. They work the same wherever you are.
b) Do not tank up on beer. It slows your feet down. Also a lesson you should know from Auckland.
c) If you insist on drinking beer, keep your empty. It is worth a full new one. It is also worth €1 if returned unsmashed at the end of the night with the special token.
d) Ignore the boyfriends on the stage. They can't dance anyway.
e) Make sure you have some German friends for backup/translation/special getaway needs if it all turns nasty
f) Note where the Aussies are, they may perchance create a handy diversion for you.
g) Mouth like you know the words. Doing the 'fish impression' is not helpful unless you are constantly moving your head so as not to give away the fact you have no clue what you are saying.
h) Don't bother getting water. It's not free and it's also carbonated, meaning it is totally useless for your needs. Get Red Bull or something like that instead.
i) Take regular breaks. Less is more when you're on the dance floor and mysterious exits simply add to your appeal.
j) Do not bump into the boyfriends accidentally unless there is a very good reason to, such as escaping a fire on the stage.
k) Push the boundaries but don't push your luck. Germans are not famed for their sense of humour.
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