Friday, May 26, 2006

London

So, yours truly went wandering in London unaccompanied...

I visited the National Art Gallery and spent most of the morning there (out of interest, not because I got lost inside!) and then went in search of a pub for some lunch.

So the Gallery, overlooking Trafalgar Square and Nelson's Column, was pretty impressive. A lot of art inside (duh) and some fascinating work from Duccio and Ugolio di Nerio , Cezanne, Caucagin, and of course (among many others) van Gogh. Speculation abounds that he used yellow a lot because he drank too much absinthe and developed retinal problems, or that he just really really really liked that colour. I'm not an Art History student so I wouldn't know. But it was interesting.

Then on to the pub. I set off with an appetite for lunch, then spent half an hour walking around trying to find a bloody pub to eat it in! I found one at 11:30, requested some lunch and was informed that the kitchen wasn't open yet. No problem, I said, I'll have a beer and wait.

The problem was, I chose a disgusting beer - Old Speckled Hen. It just about killed my appetite, and then I had to eat the meal to remove the taste of the beer. It just about spoiled my day.

I amused myself by pretending to enjoy the beer as I watched suits emerge from and then hurry back to their lairs with lunch, on the street outside. I was struck by how many guys were wearing pink, not just pink shirts, but pink ties too. Plus, it didn't matter if one was young or old, there were plenty of old fellas strutting around in pink. Nor did it matter if one was short or tall. I had to stand up from my seat to see a wee man bustling up the footpath in his pinks as well.

Now, I'm all for progress and all that, but it was fascinating to see the parade of pink. And as an aside, some of the guys were impeccably dressed, even with a splash of pink. Very stylish indeed.

So I finished my sojourn into what could be called 'downtown' London and headed home on the Tube.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Suspicious packages

Remember that feeling when you had as a kid when you realised a different type of chocolate had been brought home from the supermarket? You unwrapped it gingerly, sniffed it critically and then chewed it thoughtfully, giving it a thorough inspection. If it was bad, the rest stayed in the freezer, pushed right to the back or down the bottom, hidden under the blocks of chicken stock and your parents' wedding cake. If it was very bad, you didn't swallow any more but deposited it straight into the compost bucket. If it was good though, you made a mental note to tell whoever it was that bought the shopping that day...

I came to London with a heavy heart, knowing that I was leaving the Dunedinen-brewed-Cadbury-laden shores of New Zealand and coming to London, centre of imitation chocolate in name, taste and price...

I viewed the sweet stand outside the train station with suspicion. Its wire grills and ventilation holes screamed a message of desperation, of hurt and humiliation. I approached the man inside and squeaked, "One Cadbury Dariy Milk, please". He asked me which kind I wanted (which kind of Dairy Milk?!?) and I handed over 45p.

Now the price wasn't bad (translated to $1.50) but all I wanted was the sensation of rich, creamy chocolate disappearing down my throat faster than you could say slow down sunshine. Alas, I got through the first cube and realised that I was not in the same country as Cumberland St any more.

I set the last two cubes of chocolate in the freezer. That was yesterday.

I opened the freezer today with a sense of resigned mediocrity: there was bad chocolate in the freezer but I was getting desperate, with only half an hour since breakfast. I put the last of the bad chocolate in my mouth and felt the recoil of my taste buds as I chomped it down.

Monday, May 22, 2006

Itinerary Take 2

Ok, so my first attempt was a little 'optimistic'. If I'm not going there 'for the soccer' (which I'm not, considering I don't have any tickets), then I'm probably going there for the country (so I should see as much of it as possible)? It would be a bit more accurate to say I'm somewhere inbetween.

I'm not going to the soccer, but I am definitely in Germany because of the soccer and I have an All Whites shirt that I'm going to wear every night I can make it last (I'll wash it every second morning or so if I can be bothered), so in terms of countryside, that can wait (well, most of Germany can wait). Sorry, Nuremberg, sorry Leipzig. Next time.

So:

Switzerland.
Munich.
Bonn.
Cologne.
Düsseldorf.
Hamburg.
Berlin.

A heavy focus on West Germany and the Rhine, but Berlin (in the heart of East Germany) is at the end of the list and I can always stay longer if I can afford it. 1 week or so in each city after Switzerland (maybe only a few in Düsseldorf), then a reassessment post-World Cup.

Friday, May 19, 2006

The Price of Experience

Cash is king, as they say. Below is the ledger of experience, with negatives for losing money or having paid too much for something when a cheaper alternative is available, or some stupid activity that can be quantified in money terms, and positives for free stuff, cheaper stuff, and finding money. This one will be updated as further events warrant.

Negative

- Deciding not to to take my purpose-purchased tent and backpack: $550 NZD
- Wardrobe worries: losing 55 EUR in Dubai

Positive
- Despite being inept at weighing my own luggage and turning up to the airport 8kgs over, having the excess baggage charges waived (as much as $20/kg over?): $160 NZD
- Scoring a free continental breakfast due my own ignorance (and quick-talking skills): NZD $50

The Equation
- Realising how stupid with money some people get when overseas and/or by themselves: priceless.

Further notes to the exercise of Packing

All I really have to offer is this: Give yourself time, and plenty of it. 2 hours before you leave is not a good time to be agonising over which jumper you take.

For all my prudence in checking the weight limits, I totally forgot about it when packing. I hauled my first suitcase onto our antique scales and watched the dial shoot up to 17kgs, out of a possible 20. Well, I thought, the second suitcase is going to be pretty light! Given that I still had to pack a 3kg tent and a 1 kg backpack, I got stressed pretty quickly.

Stress turned into action when I decided that I was not taking my tent. A decision that I needed to have made last week, I realised that the chances were I wouldn't need one for the time being. Out goes the tent.

The softie became tough-bitten: out goes the furry rugby ball, out goes my 2nd-favourite hoodie, out goes the boxed wine opener set, my fourth pair of shoes (the jandals stayed) and other non-essential clothes. I decided that my second checked luggage was now going to be another suitcase, not my backpack (for travelling in Germany). Rather hurriedly, I decided that I would simply buy another backpack or make do with a suitcase and a smaller day-pack (price of experience).

Time is of the essence. So, stop playing D&D, WarCraft or solitaire and start packing for your OE today!

Flights

Auckland - Dubai

Rather than spout on in a boring way about everything to do with the flight and What I Did On The Flight, I'll just keep it simple:

- Service was good (to a high standard)
- Food was good (better than average)
- Alcohol was good (welcomed)
- In-flight-entertainment was superior, but could be improved by less 80's style arcade games and more 90s style arcade games, and more recent movies like the Da Vinci Code. Beating your competition means having the films before they come out in the cinemas anywhere. Period. Then some [crazy rich] people will fly with you even if it means only to see the movie.

We had a stop in Melbourne to pick up new crew (the old ones were burned out and traumatised by the grunting coming from the old man in seat 23C) and I took a snap in the airport of what could only appear on an Australian flight information screen:



And so relax I did, despite slight distress at being unable to check my phone for text messages.

Dubai - London

After the experience of Dubai, the plane trip was prefaced by a startling challenge from an Emirates official in the boarding lounge: as I walked through the passport check, this man approached me and invited me to go to a table to obtain some refreshments, but all I heard was, "Young man, come over here (motioning with his hand) and ..." and fears of more hidden costs under the fruit bowl, charges of misappropriation, loss of hands and/or thieving fingers welled up inside me. Once I realised the diet-Pepsi, 7-Up and cut sandwiches were free, my anxiety abated and I consented to a diet-Pepsi, for politeness' sake rather than any nutritional or emotional benefit. After all, it seems a good idea not to annoy people who you are in fact dependent on to get you out of the country alive.

On the way on the plane I picked up a copy of the Khaleej Times, a surprisingly, compellingly good read. Respectful and non-tabloid editorialism went hand-in-hand with thorny issues and public matters, such as the prospect of night-shifts for workers in Dubai, the suburban outrage and opposition, or a section devoted to public service-style airing of complaints about the service of companies, with a section directly below for public rebuttal (but most often public thanks and retractions from the companies involved. More than once I saw requests from the companies to have the complaints formally lodged with them). A nice touch, giving the party concerned an opportunity to respond in the public manner that the complaint was lodged. From local politics, to regional and world news, the paper was surprisingly in-depth and could put a few big name daily newspapers from Auckland to shame. On to sport and a tabloid pullout, perhaps to placate the British constituency who live in the UAE?

On-board, the woman sitting next to me filled me in on local matters and scenery, pointing out that the haze I saw was in fact smog, from an over-developed and struggling coastal spot called Dubai. She was matter-of-fact about the plight of Indian workers who were providing the labour for Dubai's expansion, stating that they had no regulations to protect them, harsh penalties for industrial action, and a pile of back-pay that they never saw. She said that the first round of expansion in Dubai (in terms of the round of 'generation', first batch of on-selling of buildings and high-rises constructed), had gone through but prices were now unsustainable - no one was buying any further because it just cost too much, as developers and speculators racked the price and the profit up. A little bleak for what I would regard as a still-developing international destination.

This flight was tricky because although it was only a 6.5 hour flight, it was 6.5 hours on the end of a restless 5 hour stopover in Dubai and a good 12-16 hours flying overnight from Auckland. This time, because there seemed to be More Happening, I'll briefly indulge in the details of During The Flight.

This time I had the privilege to be sitting at the front of economy class, so I had the opportunity to glimpse into business class whenever the flight attendants moved between the two, but also to witness the phenomenon of 'autonomous upgrades', of which two people tried to fulfil during the flight.

The first was a grumpy man who clearly had a chip on his shoulder that he wasn't in business class (or perhaps he was a trained interior decorator and the curtain design was extremely offensive to him). He wandered up to the front of economy class, which I noticed immediately because there were no attractions up there, no paintings, mini-bar or live band and people passing my row inevitably kept going (through the curtain to business class). He sidled through, into business class and must have been stopped immediately because I heard him ask where the toilets were (clearly he wanted to get to the business class ones). He stepped back into economy class with a flight attendant nearly in his face, and then he asked again, to which she said, "The toilets are down there sir", pointing back down the aisle to them. She took a step backwards, drew the curtains in a flash and then disappeared back into business class. He grumped back to the toilets and although I couldn't hear them, I imagined he was mouthing some pretty foul words.

The second was a woman who perhaps again wanted to use the business class toilets (I should really have looked back and checked to see if the economy class ones were occupied). She walked up to the front of economy class (the curtains were drawn this time), briefly stuck her head through the curtain and then proceeded to squeeze her way across the middle section of seats through to the other side, in the process waking up a guy sleeping. She then stuck her head through the curtains on the other side, before walking back down that aisle. Not so funny this time, but I only noticed because I was hoping she might get asked by a flight attendant what she thought she was doing.

At this point I turned to my trusty iPod to stave of doziness and fired up some stirring rhythms. It kept me awake but didn't stop me half-falling asleep: the first time I startled back awake, knocked an empty cup off my lunch tray (they hadn't been collected at that stage) and just about set the rest of the contents over the woman in the seat next to me. I found it staggering she didn't notice.

The second was over north Iran somewhere and my head suddenly drooped forward off my headrest and smacked the side of the cabin (I was in a window seat). The smack served to wake me up and I think I saw one of my legs jump too. I was just as concerned as the first time because I still had a mess on my tray that could have quite easily become a mess on the wall in front of me, the floor, my lap or again, the poor woman beside me. I looked around this time and she had again missed it, just like the rest of economy class who I'm sure heard the thud as my head made contact.

I decided to bring in Sudoku to help pass the time.

Halfway through the second one, two old fellows came out of business class and carried out a conversation (in what they obviously regarded as hushed tones). I stopped my music and massaged my ears as if they were sore (red perhaps) and had a listen. It appeared that they had not 'stepped out the back' to sort out their differences (over a lady?) as I had hoped, but still, they were in fact discussing a lady. I think it may have been a sister or close friend of theirs - they were freckled enough to be brothers. Whatever it was, they finished their conversation, only parts of which I was able to decipher, and sidled back into business class.

I gave up on Sudoku after doing two, mucking up the first one about six squares from completion but doing the second OK. Concentrating was beginning to get on my nerves.

Luckily, a flight attendant soon turned up with a tray of drinks. I was definitely tired, because my first thoughts were that they were generous triples of vodka, whisky or orange juice. Upon drinking the brown liquid (which she told me was apple juice but I had my doubts...) I discovered that they were in fact meagre cupfuls of water, apple juice and orange juice. The apple juice tasted mighty fine but perhaps could be explained by my thirst a the time.

Not too much else to report for the flight except that it was cloudy over Germany so I missed out on any views from the camera underneath the plane (feeding into the entertainment system) and watched Morgan Spurlock's documentary on living on the minimum wage (free entertainment: a tour of your local bank branch - HA! 'Now, here is the stamp that we use to stamp your book, and here is our drinks cabinet, hands off please...') and some historic world cup matches.

We circled around Heathrow for quite a while, and the first turn we did was around a huge pillar of cloud. Sure the pilot has outer beacons that they need to stay in, but I'm sure they saw this cloud and said to the other pilot or navigator, "Hey Jeff, I just want to give that cumulonimbus the run-around. Give us half a minute will ya?". It's quite possibly the kind of thing I'd do as a pilot if I could avoid losing my job over it.

The Last Day - Students

Some great moments from the last day in NZ - which was more stressful than I had expected...

Sitting on a bus into town to get some more medicine from the doctor, I was sitting in front of two uni students. The details are sketchy, but the conversation was going sort of like this:

Student 1: "How many theories do you have?"
Student 2: "Uh, what do you mean?"
S1: "Like, theories man! Do you have a theory on everthing? You gotta have a theory on everything!"
S2: (guardedly) "Well, there's a lot of stuff I don't know..."
S1: "Exactly! That's your theory about everything! The fact that you have a theory on what you know, that means you have a theory on everything!"
S2: (polite pause in which S1 starts again)
S1: "Now, this is some total esoteric bullshit here, but the fact that you have a theory that encompasses the limits of what you know, means that you have a theory on each thing that you do know! I mean, how many more theories could you have?" (laughs to reinforce absurdity)
S2: (slowly) "Your point being...?"

Now, there were actually many more lines in that conversation before it reached S2's sensible query and I sniggered aloud and then hid my smile as the conversation continued:

S1: "Oh, by the way, my name's Alex." (offers hand)
S2: "Oh, sweet man, I'm Dave." (they shake hands)

(more hiding of smiles by me)

S1: "Dave. Common name... I have a theory about Daves"
S2: "You have a lot of theories..."

The [mostly one-sided] conversation of absurd lengths that I was listening went on to discuss common names and the fact that if parents tended to call their kids uncommon names, those names would become common, and then which names would be uncommon? At that point, I felt like interrupting and saying that most parents call their kids common names, which is why the names are common, and that you'd only see the opposite happen (ie. the commonality of first names disappearing) when it becomes common (but not fashionable) for parents to give their kids uncommon names, for example like Crouching Tiger, Perseverance or Mantel (as in Mantelpiece)*.

I kept my mouth shut because I was not a student anymore and I didn't particularly feel like becoming part of S1's audience. I did think I recognised him from one of my Stage One Philosophy lectures (which I sat in 3rd year) and had a suspicion the conversation could get louder and more bizarre. I remember having such conversations up at Shadows myself, but we were not at Shadows and being 10am, it was a little early to be under the influence of anything strong enough to encourage such abstract monologues.

S2 got off the bus before the university stops.

* Apologies to anyone with the above names.

Thursday, May 18, 2006

Dubai - the airport

Arriving groggy and tired in Dubai at 5am, I was greeted out of the plane by dry heat, an orange haze above the horizon and an electric bus, to transport passengers to the terminal. There were hints of Jack Brabham from the chappie behind the wheel, but we got to the terminal in one piece, despite the traffic going the wrong way up the road (due to my groggy state it only registered as a 'minor' matter and didn't particularly bother me). The heat at 5am with the sun only visible for the last 30 minutes or so was a sniff of how hot it must get at midday (this morning's forecast was a high of 35 degrees).

With that in mind I headed off to find a shower - the first real adventure on foreign soil. Surprisingly easy to locate, clean, well-presented and pretty much the best shower I've had in a while, it clocked in at NZD $44.00. I'll be reviewing how much that shower was worth in real terms when I get out at Heathrow... The only shame is that I didn't pack a change of clothes, but at least my skin feels clean!

Walking around a foreign airport has taught me many things. The first is that you need to know beforehand about the weaknesses in your wardrobe. Not specifically relating to malfunctions (there weren't any), but to holes in your pockets (both literal and figurative types).

I changed some money into dirams, stuffed the paper into my pocket, then 20 seconds later pulled out my phone from the same pocket and promptly dislodged the notes out of my pocket, onto the pristine marble floor, never to be seen again. Of course, I didn't realise that had happened until I arrived at the internet cafe with no notes in my pocket. Back to the exchange kiosk. (Value of experience: - 55 EUR)

The second thing that is handy to know is where the free stuff is. I found out quite happily, that Emirates have a lounge where transit passengers can present their boarding passes and sit down to a buffet meal before the next flight. I sat down after collecting a plate full of scrambled eggs, croissant, sausage, beans, pancakes and maple syrup and was delighted to accept the offer of an orange juice from an observant waiter.

I got up from my table, quite satisfied and composing a song in praise of Emirates when one of the waiters approached me with the bill for my meal. It transpired that I had wandered into a premium restaurant, out of the Emirates area and was up for a bill of 55 dirams (approx NZD $50)! I pleaded ignorance with the waiter and he went to get the manager. He came out, with a half-scowl lining his face as he listened to my story. The area, I explained, was not well marked and it was not apparent that I was entering a different restaurant. I allowed my voice to escalate slightly as I reassured him that it was not an issue of refusal to pay, but simply feedback that I would have served myself differently had it been signposted as being apart from the Emirates area.

He nodded throughout and then extended me his hand. I shook it and he waved away the bill. As the grin rippled over my face, the original waiter offered me his hand as well. I shook it firmly with a restrained but appreciative smile on my face. I then attempted to leave the premises to catch my next flight, and just about walked into the kitchen. Turning on my heel, I ambled out the main exit past the waiters, not wanting to push my luck by looking back.

The third thing about international airports is on the issue of cellphone roaming. I was caught out by a glitch in Vodafone's system that meant I was unable to roam for the final month of my connection (having planned ahead and advised them I was stopping the account). This meant I was unable to check messages firstly in Melbourne and then again here in Dubai.

83 dirams later (price of experience), after an 8-minute call to NZ, I revoked the instruction to close the account and was duly allowed to roam again. Cue 20 messages, 5 of them from the Dubai GSM carrier ETISALAT, welcoming me and informing me of all the services available to me, their valued customer.

I have now checked my messages but dare not spend any more money by replying while roaming - when I come to close my Vodafone account next next month I may not be able to! (As an aside, the people who I have texted, or who have texted back to me, I'll reply in due course once I get my UK SIM sorted).

Dubai being the burgeoning city of growth that it is (depending on who you talk to), obviously has some important safety messages it needs to get across. The following pictures were snapped inside the airport on the edge of a construction zone with scaffolding. Needless to say, attitudes vary across the world, almost as much as what kind of objects fall from above...




Now on to Heathrow!

Further posts pending for the flights and the price of experience.

UPDATE: Posts done and pictures added.

Monday, May 15, 2006

Pre-takeoff

In preparation for my imminent departure (2 more sleeps!) I have relinked all the stuff that is kind of handy before leaving, into this post, so that I can redesign the blog to being a 'post-departure' blog (which of course it is meant to be!).

So:

My to-do-list
Getting a Visa
Travel Money
Travel Insurance
Packing and Further Notes to the Exercise of Packing
The Price of Experience

What I'm leaving behind:

Beer - I, II
People - I and Students
Rugby - I, II, III


See also the archives for December 2005 through May 2006. Minor updates with new posts post-departure.

Ripped

After an intense final game of indoor soccer on Sunday night, I looked down at my pants to find this humungous tear in the fabric, as illustrated. Odd, because I hadn't heard any sound effects during the game that would herald such a rending of one's garments.

I was momentarily concerned that the rip had been caused by sharp object of some nature, and given the approximate area of the rip, that further damage may have been done. I was pleased to note that it was not so.

So apart from sending another set of fabulously coloured shorts to the great Fabric Factory in the Sky (oddly enough, which I had never worn to soccer before), I now need to purchase some new togs.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Packing (and dumping)

The only way to survive an enforced pack-out and dump-out (if going on OE, or last child to leave the family home) is to break it down into small, achievable victories.

- Decimate your clothing collection - give your associates, siblings and parents half an hour to claim any items before you place all your discarded clothing into a recycling bag.
- Decimate your gadget collection - reflect on how much junk you actually hold onto in the naiive mindset that it will either become a) handy one day or b) worth heaps. Neither will happen, and the gadgets merely go through batteries and your wallet. It's time they left.
- Decimate your satchel/bag collection. All those complimentary satchels you held onto because they will help you 'remember' the great time you had on conference or tour or at work or yesterday, they take up room and they only hold whatever you had to hold that day. You haven't emptied them because you didn't need to get at those notes or receipts or whatever. You haven't used them because you didn't need to (or didn't want to). It's time they left too.

It is different for every person leaving home - different for the eldest, middle children, youngest. The youngest has the biggest amount of junk to dispose of and has up until this time developed a penchant for collecting things - the hangover of hand-me-downs. Leaving home is a chance to break free of this debilitating tendancy, to get rid of a lot of junk and to feel empowered doing so.

The older siblings have it easier - they aren't in danger of being disinherited by a disgruntled sibling left at home with junk to take care of. The youngest however rides a tightrope above the abyss of disinheritance if they try the same trick on the parents.

The systematic scorecard

Righto. I have arrived at a few key characteristics and checkpoints for each German city that I will be in:

Greenery

The score attained in this category will depend on:

- ease of access to soccer-friendly fields
- presence of trees in the suburbs and in the city
- quality of the grass verges (ie. dead/dying/alive)
- an overall assessment of texture, smell, spring factor and general satisfaction

Entertainment

- ease of access to entertainment venues
- vibe at said venues
- extent of advertising for local gigs/concerts/cage fights
- an overall assessment of 'feel-good' factor, security, space and general entertainment satisfaction

Beer

- the drink: a) presentation b) taste c) kick or 'hangover factor'
- price
- the extent to which the story behind the beer is either a) quirky b)a conversation starter or c)just plain nuts
- an overall assessment of the beer's chi, its colour, texture and general drinking satisfaction

Religion (to be assessed by visiting a Catholic Church)

- general impression of the church's exterior and interior (including the stained-glass, the roof, the altar, Tabernacle and whether or not the windows are clean)
- quality of revered silence (not of the ECHO FACTOR)
- number of people also in the church apart from me
- an overall assessment of the feng shui, any musical ambience, religious calm and general praying satisfaction

The City Itself

- first impressions of the city and the people
- lasting impressions
- my arrest tally
- an overall assessment of the infrastructure, comparison with the matching tour guide/Lonely Planet guide, would-i-want-to-live-here factor and general satisfaction.

Five categories with each category worth 10 points each (2,2,2,4). Further changes may be made as I see fit.

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

Maps: The Beginning

New Addition to the sidebar: Maps

As promised at the outset, I have finally got off my A and got some maps into G. Courtesy of the CIA, found here (Hat-tip: Michelle), I have customised some maps and will update them as I move through Germany. I hope this will help me to be systematic about my city profiles. As they say though, even the best laid plans...


Monday, May 01, 2006

Additional Antipodeans

New entrants as per the sidebar: some highlights:

"I'll never get over the semi-Orwellian chill of the embedded PA system turning itself on in Korean apartment buildings. "Please close the veranda windows when the temperature drops below freezing. Otherwise the water pipes will burst." It's not even exactly efficient, because what if no one was home. A friend finds the previous tenant had taped over part of the speakers, in a partly successful attempt to muffle the blaring intrusion" - miss stinky (back in) in seoul

and

Hamish Carter: his long-lost expat twin revealed!

and

(not sure if this is antipodean, but) Japanese Un-PC


So there are some interesting things out there, such as this pictorial blog of a UK med student. Now, back to more productive things....

What I'm leaving behind - Rugby III

As heard on TV3 news tonight from the effervescent Hamish McKay, commenting on the fortunes of the Kiwi Super 14 forwards:

"[T]wo happy hookers: the sad one, Anton Oliver; the happy hooker, Andrew Hore..."

I mean, I'm really going to miss the male bonding while I'm overseas and not just in the scrum either...